Looking for authentic Italy off-the-beaten path? Venture into the small towns of north and central Italy. Discover the forgotten capitals of the past, the land of the Ancient Etruscans, the birthplace of Ferrari and Lamborghini, genuine balsamic vinegar, parma ham and parmesan cheese. At many sites here you won’t find crowds even in peak season.
I recommend these destinations also for first times, not only long-time Italy fans. Beautiful landscapes, unexpected impressive art, towns full of local character, and of course delicious treats. Beyond the eight highlights below, don’t miss out on Sovana, Sorano, Bolsena, Celleno, Todi, Cortona, Spello, Spoleto, Viterbo, Ferrara, Padova, Mantova, Cremona, Sabbioneta, Vigoleno, Castel’Arquato and so many more. Magnificent gardens, tucked away private art galleries, spectacular hikes, and immersive sightseeing await. Get ready to enjoy!
Recommended itinerary length is in weeks: pick your favorite town and take a week to explore its surroundings. Four weeks needed to explore the towns on both sides of the Apennine ridge, two weeks for either north and south sides. A car is a desirable and the area is very driver-friendly, although the town centers tend to be pedestrian-only so get info before you attempt to drive in.
Got only one day? No problem: pick one town for a day trip from Florence, Bologna or Rome – it will easily be the highlight of your whole trip! Contact me for an itinerary tailored to your time and budget.
Ravenna
Over one millennium ago, Ravenna was a major port and the capital of several Empires. Today, Ravenna preserves the traces of this wealth in its world-famous mosaics, UNESCO World Heritage Site. In one day, we marvel at the monolithic dome of the Mausoleum of Theodoric, the golden mosaics of the Baptisteries, the churches of San Vitale, San Applonare Nuovo, San Appolinare in Classe, the Chapel of St. Andrew, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. We visit also the excavations of an Ancient Roman villa with two-thousand-year-old mosaic floor. And my absolute favorite: a fish pond under a church altar!
Orvieto
Founded by the Ancient Etruscans, Volsiinii was destroyed by the Ancient Romans two millennia ago. The inhabitants were forcibly moved to the nearby lake where they built a town with the name of the one they had to flee: Volsinii or Bolsena. A new city grew on the Ancient ruins in the Middle Ages, adorned by the Popes, with the name of Urbs Vetus or Old City in Latin. Orvieto is famous for its stunning Duomo and the underground structures. It is a great day trip from either Florence or, better, from Rome.
Assisi
Saint Francis was born here. Francis was the founder of the most popular religious order of Middle Ages comparable to the Apple and Steve Jobs today. Declared saint soon after his death, the Popes harvested the business opportunity presented by the Franciscan order by building a two-level basilica frescoed entirely with the stories of St. Francis’s life by the most famous artists of the time including the famous Giotto. Not many people realize but the town of Assisi has much to offer also beyond the basilica. It is a charming Medieval hilltop town that stands on the Ancient Roman ruins still visible both on and beneath the streets. Set in the lush Umbrian landscape, this part of Italy is home to delicious red wines, salami and truffles. It is also a spectacular hiking destination and a great day trip from Florence.
Torrechiara
One of the most spectacular Medieval castles in the territory of the Dutch of Parma and Piacenza, restored after the 2009 earthquake and surrounded by the Paduan plane. To learn more about this and other castles in the area, check the official site here.
Urbino
Birthplace of Raphael and the land of the Dukes of Urbino – ooh whom the most famous one had a crooked nose – Urbino lies off the main tourist path still preserving its authentic beauty. The huge palace of the dukes is set on a hill overlooking the landscapes painted by Piero della Francesca, while the University of Urbino keeps the town burstling with life still today.
Parma
Parma is famous for ham and parmesan cheese. Not everyone knows that it is also home to an outstanding art gallery, spectacular Medieval castles, and famous painters like Correggio and Parmigianino. It is also the only Italian town I know with a perfectly intact cathedral square, without the neon lights and tourist outlets, just like it was hundreds of years ago. The Cathedral interior hides magnificent frescoes – and so does the Baptistery, a near-by monastery allows visits to the private apartments of a Renaissance nun, and don’t forget to taste the delicious culatello!
The Ghost Towns of Lazio
Somewhere between Florence and Rome, tiny Medieval towns were build atop the tufa stone ridge. These towns are now sliding into a precipice due to soil erosion, most buildings abandoned, wrapped into breathtaking views. The only way to reach towns is on foot because the car roads collapsed. In some, there are no residents left, in others there live only a handful of locals.
The Ancient Cities of the Dead
Cerveteri and Tarquinia are spectacular and largely undiscovered Ancient Etruscan burial sites. Stroll thru a maze of round tumuli, pop into the tombs carved out of the soft tufa stone, awe at the colorful 2500 year old murals. Not even many Italians know about their existence! Back into the actual towns, a pensioner passes time people watching at a local bar, best restaurants don’t even have a menu (and what’s on the menu is not what they cook today), and a nap after lunch seems to be law.